This Is My Last

"Leaving the Skin Behind"

Azimin Saini, CNA:

The chicken is now poached in a master stock flavoured with soy sauce, spices, orange peel and rock sugar, giving it a caramel colour. Before serving, it goes briefly onto the grill to crisp the skin and pick up a little smokiness. Everything else – the rice, cucumbers, chilli and cilantro – remains the same.

That small adjustment captures a question Yong and Malvaez have been discussing since they started Makan: What is Singaporean food, and what can it become when the people cooking and eating it are a world away?

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